The League Kitchen & Tavern

31 Oct 2011

(map) What a surprise! Visitors to the former Dominick’s (and before that, Ciola’s) restaurants in this location should expect a complete 180-degree turn in both food and decor. The League is named for the various men’s and women’s leagues of the 1920s, when like-minded groups got together for food and drink. The open, contemporary-but-cozy decor here is highlighted with walls covered in large, historic photomurals. Above, the “Outlaw League,” and below, a 60-foot mural showcasing hundred of members of an “anti-tavern” league.

The new-American food here is simply brilliant and well-executed. This Wedge Salad is made with Bibb lettuce, not iceberg, bacon that’s sugar-cured in-house, and authentic bleu cheese. It’s topped with a perfectly fried egg, a rich accent to the crispy greens and bacon.

Jalapeno poppers are stuffed with cheese and moist, tender chicken, then coated with crunch panko bread crumbs.

There are several flatbreads on the menu. The “Horsey Short Rib” starts with beef short ribs braised in Shiner Bock beer and cooked sous vide (on low heat overnight). It’s topped with tomatoes and a horseradish sour cream that makes a tangy complement to the tender beef.

The not-so-typical wings are also cooked sous vide, then finished on the grill. Served with a delicious glaze of house-made barbecue sauce.

The club sandwich is creatively served in quarters on skewers. Toasted sourdough bread encases fat helpings of turkey roasted in-house, tomatoes, lettuce, and lots of that house-cured bacon.

One of The League’s biggest hits: Fat Tire Fish and Chips. Big pieces of cod are battered in beer, fried and served on a heap of fries with a malted tartar sauce.

The former bar has been redone to be more of a sports bar in feel, with lots of TVs all around the room. It’s been opened up to the rest of the place, and you can eat in here, too, either at tall tables or at the bar. Cheers to The League!